Sydney's restaurant scene continues to evolve with a clear shift toward neighbourhood dining. The biggest openings this year have concentrated on smaller.
Dining Desk is a contributing writer covering eat-drink and public affairs for The Sydney Times.
Sydney's restaurant scene continues to evolve with a clear shift toward neighbourhood dining. The biggest openings this year have concentrated on smaller, chef-driven spaces rather than large hotel flagship restaurants. Produce quality, fermentation, and open-fire cooking are the dominant techniques across the new openings.
The Lucky Radish opened in Surry Hills in March with a 40-seat dining room focused on whole-animal cooking and natural wine. Chef Linh Nguyen previously worked at Momofuku and The Apollo. The menu changes weekly based on what arrives at the nearby Flemington markets. The lamb shoulder with harissa and preserved lemon has become one of the most discussed dishes in the city this year.
Larrikkin opened in Newtown in May in a converted terrace house. The restaurant seats 28 and operates a no-reservations policy for the bar area, which has created queues on weekends. Chef Tom Hartley's menu draws on Southeast Asian fermentation techniques with a strong emphasis on house-made soy and fish sauce. The scallop ceviche with finger lime and chilli is the signature dish.
Pilgrim opened in Potts Point in June in the ground floor of a new apartment building. The restaurant has 55 seats and a open kitchen with a wood-fired grill as the centrepiece. Chef Anna Reid sources most of her produce from the South Coast and the Central Tablelands. The dry-aged duck with quince and walnuts has drawn strong reviews.
Salt & Ash opened in Bondi in July. The 50-seat restaurant sits opposite the beach and specialises in coastal Italian cooking. Chef Marco Vitelli previously worked at Felix in London before returning to Sydney. The menu is built around raw seafood, house-made pasta, and a wood-fired oven. The grilled octopus with nduja and potatoes is a standout.
The Cellar Door opened in Balmain in August in a restored Victorian warehouse. The restaurant has 35 seats and operates as both a wine bar and a restaurant. The wine list focuses exclusively on Australian producers working with organic or biodynamic grapes. The food menu is built around shared plates designed to match the wine list.
The most notable design trend across the new openings is the use of recycled materials and minimal finishes. The Lucky Radish uses reclaimed Tasmanian oak for its tables and benches. Larrikkin has exposed brick walls and vintage lighting sourced from Melbourne dealers. Salt & Ash has floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto the street, blurring the boundary between inside and outside.
Most of the new openings require booking at least two weeks in advance for weekend tables. The Lucky Radish and Larrikkin both use the Resy booking platform. Prices range from $85 for a set lunch at The Cellar Door to $220 for a degustation at Pilgrim. The average main course costs between $32 and $45.
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