A new generation of Vietnamese dining venues is transforming Sydney's restaurant landscape, from high-end pho houses in the CBD to casual banh mi...
Dining Desk is a contributing writer covering eat-drink and public affairs for The Sydney Times.
A new wave of Vietnamese dining venues is reshaping Sydney's restaurant landscape, with high-profile chefs and operators bringing the country's culinary traditions to audiences far beyond the traditional suburban pho house.
The most significant arrival is Ho Liao, the Malaysian-Australian restaurant brand founded by Junda Khoo, which will open its first Sydney venue at the former Soul Dining site in Wynyard. Khoo, co-founder of the successful Ho Jiak chain, plans to bring the best of his Melbourne menus to Sydney's CBD, including assam nyonya fish, roast duck, laksa bombs, and Teow Chew sashimi.
"I want it to be a sharing place, with long tables," Khoo said of the Wynyard venue. The space is being stripped of its dark, moody charcoal walls and replaced with a brighter colour palette to suit the new concept.
Tam Jiak, another Khoo venture, has already opened at the new Sydney Fish Market, offering Vietnamese-inspired dishes alongside the precinct's other dining options. The Fish Market, which officially opened its doors on January 19, has become a magnet for food enthusiasts despite slower-than-expected evening trade.
The Vietnamese dining scene extends beyond the CBD. At the Sydney Fish Market, Lua by Luke Nguyen has drawn crowds since its March debut, offering what critics have called the "world's best rice." The restaurant sits alongside Hamsi Taverna, the Turkish seafood venue by celebrated chef Somer Sivrioglu, which has become one of the best all-rounders for Anzac Bridge views.
The trend reflects a broader maturation of Sydney's Vietnamese food culture. Where once the cuisine was synonymous with cheap takeaway pho in suburban strips, a new generation of operators is elevating the ingredients and techniques. Char siu beef ribs, banh mi-inspired pate en croute, and refined renditions of classic dishes are appearing on menus across the city.
The influx of Vietnamese restaurants coincides with Sydney's expanding dining precincts. The Fish Market, Wynyard, and the inner suburbs are all seeing new Vietnamese-led openings that cater to both casual diners and fine-dining audiences.
Chin Chin, the acclaimed Vietnamese restaurant group, is also expanding, with a new Manly location slated to open soon. The expansion signals that Vietnamese cuisine has moved firmly into the mainstream of Sydney's dining scene.
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